External Hard Drives Require Initializing

**I'm sorry, I don't know what happened to the title.  I typed it to read External Hard Drives Require Initializing.  Unfortunately, I cannot see how to change it, nor how to delete the post and start a new one.**

I have a 2 Tbyte HDD (WesternDigital) that was originally installed in a "MyBook".  The drive was damaged by a failing processor shutting down several years ago.  At the time, the drive indicated that the data could be recovered.

Finances being what they are, I was unable to purchase a new drive until today (in this case, a 4 Tbyte HDD).  I have a disk cloner (basically, it is like a box with ports for two hard drives, which can either be used to clone the contents of one drive onto the other, or allow one to use two drives as external hard drives through the same time USB jack).

The cloner and drives appear to be working properly.  However, neither of these drives shows up on the list of hard drives.  When I checked Disk Management, it says that I must initialize the drives before Local Disk Management can access them.  This is logical.

Also, Disk Management gives two options -- Master Boot Record (MBR) and GUID Partition Table (GPT).  I do not understand what these options mean (though MBR is ticked by default).

However, it is too many years since I dealt with any of this, and, as I am 70 years old, I suspect it will not come back.  My question is, will initializing the 2 Tbyte drive (the drive whose data I very much hope to recover) destroy the data on it?  If so, is there anything I can do that will allow me to access the data as is, so that I can transfer the recoverable data to the 4 Tbyte drive?

I created an analysis of the PC using SPECCY, as directed, and that is attached to this post.  The damaged 2 Tbyte drive is outlined in red, the new 4 Tbyte drive is outlined in yellow.  If there is any other data that I should provide, please let me know.

Thank you all for your time, and for your help.  Both are very much appreciated.

-- DMB

Edited by dmburkus, 23 September 2023 - 07:35 AM.

Are you saying both drives show up as Not Initialized? A new blank drive should show as Not Initialized. But, Initializing a drive will wipe any data that was previously on it.

For your 4TB drive it is required to initialize it as GPT as MBR will only support up to 2TB.

When a drive that was working suddenly changes to Not Initialized it means the drive has failed.

Do you have a model number of the My Book? One WD My Book external drive cannot be read if removed from the enclosure. See the below link.

https://support-en.wd.com/app/answers/detailweb/a_id/1837/~/external-drive%3A-hardware-encryption-compatibility-matrix

It may be possible to pull the data using a live linux distro like Mint.

FYI, As you know Windows 7 has reached end of life with no further security updates. There are a lot of security issues with the OS. I would recommend you do not do any banking on this OS.

For future knowledge you should always provide the speccy link or the .txt file as an attachment.  This make is much easier for us to copy paste text for research and see more details.      

Thank you both, JohnC_21 and pcpunk, for your replies.  I am working with someone I know (albeit via e-mails) to see what my best options are regarding Linux.  I have an old machine on which I installed Linux from a file that person sent me, only to have it corrupted almost immediately by updates (that I was unable to stop) -- updates that quickly rendered the machine inoperable.  I am discussing whether I could either run Linux from the disk I burned from his file, or possibly install it on this PC so that it has two operating systems (and then using Linux to interact with the internet).  Last week I bought a new (albeit several-years-old) Samsung laptop, which I also have to set up.  I have been dragging my feet because it has the Korean version of Windows 10 installed, and Korean versions always make problems with some of my software, so before spending the time setting things up I would prefer to replace the Korean operating system with the US version -- if I can figure out how to do that.

I am very much aware of the issues with Windows 7; unfortunately I do not know how to update the operating system to Windows 10 (without having to pay for the update).  People in Korea (where I am staying these days) seem able to download any Windows installation and install it anywhere for free without any issues with registration or anything else.  But I am having trouble getting in touch with anyone who knows such things.  (When I had someone buy me Windows 7, directly from Microsoft, the physical disks in a Microsoft sealed box, about a week after I installed it, it started saying it was "not genuine"-- so I am extremely annoyed with Microsoft in general.  Because of the non-genuine status, it would not upgrade to Windows 10, even though I paid a premium price for the disks because they would do so.)  Since I do not have a cell phone, I cannot have "online banking," meaning I cannot purchase things on line myself.

Give me a couple of days to see what I can come up with that person (who is in North Carolina) regarding the Linux issue.  After that, I will see if there are any other questions that I might need your help with -- that person is a dedicated Linux user, and he claims to be unable to help me with Windows problems.

Yes, by the way, the drive from the "MyBook" appears to be one that cannot be used outside of the housing (I removed it because I could not find the cable, the jack on which is just slightly larger than a USB jack); I am sure it is functionally shot; but, as I said, after the issue, it gave a message that the data could be recovered.  If Linux is able to display the files, then I will hopefully be able to copy them and move them onto the new hard drive (which I am planning to install inside this PC, as an E: drive).  Thank you, JohnC_21, for reminding me ablout that.  I had another drive that was damaged (perhaps it was the C: drive from that earlier PC, that was damaged at the same time as the MyBook when the processor crashed several times?), and I was able to extract the files from the damaged drive with Linux.  So let me figure out the best approach -- the friend indicated that running Linux from the disk would be very slow going, so I may need to partition the C: drive and just install it (after I move all non-operating system files onto another drive).

Thank you both again for your comments, and sorry about the SPECCY file.  If necessary, I will attach a .txt version next time.  Please have a good weekend.

-- DMB

Edited by dmburkus, Yesterday, 01:13 AM.

I am very much aware of the issues with Windows 7; unfortunately I do not know how to update the operating system to Windows 10 (without having to pay for the update).  People in Korea (where I am staying these days) seem able to download any Windows installation and install it anywhere for free without any issues with registration or anything else.  But I am having trouble getting in touch with anyone who knows such things.  (When I had someone buy me Windows 7, directly from Microsoft, the physical disks in a Microsoft sealed box, about a week after I installed it, it started saying it was "not genuine"-- so I am extremely annoyed with Microsoft in general.  Because of the non-genuine status, it would not upgrade to Windows 10, even though I paid a premium price for the disks because they would do so.)  Since I do not have a cell phone, I cannot have "online banking," meaning I cannot purchase things on line myself.

Do you still have the disks with the license key on them. Usually Windows 7 would come on one DVD. If you still have the key call Microsoft and ask why the key was marked as not genuine and you want a free upgrade to Windows 10.

call  888-571-2048 or 800-642-7676 and wait till you get a live person

If they refuse to upgrade to Windows 10 then backup all your data on the Windows 7 computer and install Linux Mint Cinnamon. Mint would be a better option as the Windows 7 computer would not run Windows 10 well because of the CPU and RAM.

JohnC_21 was referring to running a Linux Live Session, it does not need to be installed, just boot from it on the computer you want to use for the recovery attempt.

Please post the speccy link with the drives attached.    

Defer to John on this, he is much more knowledgeable than I, but I have read that sometimes you will have to Initialize a drive to recover files from it.  THIS WIPES ALL THE DATA!  Make sure you understand that.  Then you can use a recovery tool to get the files. 

Did you try to Initialize the 4TB Drive yet?  

Do you still have the disks with the license key on them. Usually Windows 7 would come on one DVD. If you still have the key call Microsoft and ask why the key was marked as not genuine and you want a free upgrade to Windows 10.

 

call  888-571-2048 or 800-642-7676 and wait till you get a live person

 

If they refuse to upgrade to Windows 10 then backup all your data on the Windows 7 computer and install Linux Mint Cinnamon. Mint would be a better option as the Windows 7 computer would not run Windows 10 well because of the CPU and RAM

Yes, John, I do.  Actually, it came with two disks -- one for 32 and one for 64-bit computers.  It was brand new and factory sealed when it was bought, directly from Microsoft (I was told by the person who bought it and sent it to me).  As for calling Microsoft, remember, I am in South Korea.  I tried calling once before, when the issue first happened, and only ended up wasting money, since nobody ever came onto the call.

Ok, what I have decided to do is this:  today I have to go to my bank, and I will visit the Busan Computer Market (a collection of computer-related counters on the second floor of an office building, so nothing like the Yongsan market in Seoul) after that and buy a new 500 Gbyte SSD drive (or whatever they have).  I decided the best option would be to partition that drive, and install both Windows 7 (from my disk) and Linux Mint (from the disk that my friend sent me) on the new drive.  By the way, the friend in North Carolina said he was going out of town for a week, so might not be able to help me.  As pcpunk has recommended you, I guess it might be best to just put all of this into your hands!  hahaha!  (Sorry!)

The Linux disk that I have is Linux Mint19.2-XFCE 64 bit (as a bootable .iso).  If possible, it would be easier for me to install from that, and then let it upgrade itself (my eyes are not good, so it is difficult for me to search for things on line).

I will check back once I get back from the computer market (which will probably be in 8 or 9 hours or so).  I imagine that I might need a step-by-step tutorial, so will do nothing until I hear from you.  Even though the laptop has the Korean version of Windows 10, I can still use that to communicate while changing out the hard drive from this PC.

As for pcpunk's request for a new SPECCY analysis (as a .txt file), it is attached to this reply.

Thank you both for your help -- and patience!  Please have a good day.

-- DMB


 

Edited by dmburkus, Yesterday, 07:32 PM.

Linux version 19.2 is quite old and has reached end of life. Linux Mint Cinnamon is currently at 21.2. I would recommend you download that and burn the iso to a DVD if that is possible, Creating a bootable USB flash drive is also possible using a program called balenetcher.

https://etcher.balena.io/

Install Windows 7 first then boot Linux Mint. At the Mint desktop is an icon to install linux. Select the option to install along side Windows.

pcpunk will probably offer some additional advice.

Edited by JohnC_21, Yesterday, 07:48 PM.

Linux version 19.2 is quite old and has reached end of life. Linux Mint Cinnamon is currently at 21.2. I would recommend you download that and burn the iso to a DVD if that is possible, Creating a bootable USB flash drive is also possible using a program called balenetcher.

 

https://etcher.balena.io/

 

Install Windows 7 first then boot Linux Mint. At the Mint desktop is an icon to install linux. Select the option to install along side Windows.

 

pcpunk will probably offer some additional advice.

The reason I was inclined to use the old Linux is because I don't think I have any blank DVDs left -- and last time I tried to buy some, they did not have any.  I will check in the computer market this afternoon and if they have them there, I am intending to buy a box of them.

Yes, I understand that I should install Windows first.  I believe that at that time I should partition the drive, so I would imagine two partitions of equal size (assuming I get a 500 Gbyte drive, 250 to each partition)?  Or does the Linux installation not need that much space (I seem to recall that it does not)?  Anyway, if you don't mind, I would appreciate your input regarding the relative sizes of the two partitions -- again, assuming a 500 Gbyte SSD drive.

Thank you for your help.  I will check back again after I return from the market.

-- DMB

You don't need to partition the HDD. Windows will do that during the install and when you select to install linux along side windows there is a window where you can select how much is allocated to the linux OS.. You don't need a DVD if you have a spare 8GB or larger USB flash drive. The below video explains it albeit the video is for an older version of linux mint and it uses rufus to create the bootable USB flash drive. I would give linux 100GB-150GB of disk space.

You don't need to partition the HDD. Windows will do that during the install and when you select to install linux along side windows there is a window where you can select how much is allocated to the linux OS.. You don't need a DVD if you have a spare 8GB or larger USB flash drive. The below video explains it albeit the video is for an older version of linux mint and it uses rufus to create the bootable USB flash drive. I would give linux 100GB-150GB of disk space.

 

Thank you, John.  I have several things to do here before I leave for the bank and computer market.  I will look at the video when I get back.  Thank you for the information -- it answers the first of my questions!

Please have a good day.

-- DMB

I missed out on your earlier post so was surprised to see all this new text, windows 7, new drive, dual booting. 

I would forget about Linux.  From what I see your computer came with Windows 8.1, so you should be able to clean install Windows 10 and it will activate automatically as soon as you get online.  I'm sure John just missed that as there is no good reason to install 7 at this point in time for most people considering your computer almost certainly came with 8.1.  You should see a sticker on the bottom with the Windows logo and an 8 on it, if not tell us what you see?  

During install, Don't log into Wifi or use Ethernet unless you want to login to an MS Account.  Choose I don't have Internet, in the next screen in the bottom left corner click what is basically the same question.  Then create your Local Account. 

I think you should backup your drivers in case you need them.  If not John is very good at finding them. 

I don't suggest dual booting for someone like you.  If the dual boot breaks it is much harder to fix then a single boot.    

I missed out on your earlier post so was surprised to see all this new text, windows 7, new drive, dual booting. 

 

I would forget about Linux.  From what I see your computer came with Windows 8.1, so you should be able to clean install Windows 10 and it will activate automatically as soon as you get online.  I'm sure John just missed that as there is no good reason to install 7 at this point in time for most people considering your computer almost certainly came with 8.1.  You should see a sticker on the bottom with the Windows logo and an 8 on it, if not tell us what you see?  

 

During install, Don't log into Wifi or use Ethernet unless you want to login to an MS Account.  Choose I don't have Internet, in the next screen in the bottom left corner click what is basically the same question.  Then create your Local Account. 

 

I think you should backup your drivers in case you need them.  If not John is very good at finding them. 

 

I don't suggest dual booting for someone like you.  If the dual boot breaks it is much harder to fix then a single boot.    

Thank you, pcpunk.

No, my PC came with Windows 7 installed on it (Korean version).  The machine was made for Windows 7.  I once had a laptop with Windows 8, and I would never, never, never buy a machine with that insane operating system on it!  (The sticker on the side of the PC also says Windows 7.)  Because Korean version of Windows 7 conflicts with some of the software on which I rely, I had someone buy the Windows 7 disks, from Microsoft, for me.  And that is when the problems started.  I paid full price for the disks, and after 10 days or so Microsoft suddenly declared that the product was not genuine.  I tried to contact them, and got nowhere (they never took the call).  I ended up having to find a crack to make the operating system I paid good money for stop turning black.  But that cannot be upgraded to Windows 10 either.  So if I am stuck with Windows 7, I wanted to install Linux as a second operating system, to give me a safe way to interact with the internet.  (Heretofore I used my other laptop, also running Windows 10, to do any searching and downloading, which is how I managed to keep the Windows 7 PC issue free.  Earlier this Spring the laptop died -- SSD hard drive apparently reached the end of its lifetime, and, as with the MyBook, the drive could not be removed.  Because I could not replace the laptop at that time, for financial reasons, I had no choice but to use the Windows 7 machine for searches, with the result that it became infected with debilitating malware almost immediately, and the drive has been degrading ever since.  All of the malware scans I have run show nothing, but something undetected is running in the background, so the drive continues to degrade much more quickly than would be expected.  That is why I decided to just buy a new drive later today, and so get out of that problem.)  The new drive will, of course, not have an operating system on it, and the only Windows operating system that I have (with a product key) is the Windows 7 disks (even though Microsoft claimed that the product key was not valid).  If I download Windows 10, I will still not have a valid product key, so all I can think to do is install Windows 7 from my disks, crack it to make it artificially genuine, and then co-install Linux as a way to safely interact with the internet.

The new laptop is a Windows 10 machine, with Korean Windows 10 installed on it.  I want to change that to the US version (not just change the language, which is what the shop did), and am trying to figure out how to do that as well.  The laptop will not work with Windows 11 (neither will this PC, I believe), and the Korean versions do not allow some of my software to work properly.

Ok, there are several things that I need to take care of here before I can leave for the bank and computer market, so I am going to be away from my PC from now until I get back from the bank/computer market.  Thank you, again, pcpunk, for your concern!  It is deeply appreciated!

-- DMB

Edited by dmburkus, Yesterday, 10:13 PM.

I appreciate all the info but keep your answers as short as possible.  I thought this was a Samsung Notebook but see now that it is a Desktop?  It seems you have four computers so I'm confused now???  

Is Speccy from the computer with the Product Key issue?????

I assume this is not the computer in question and that's why I'm seeing a Samsung Product Key, boy I'm confused?  You should have created another thread for this.

Your product key looks to be bogus in speccy and is on lot's of free lists all over the net!  It is a Samsung OEM, and that is not transferable to another computer, and surely didn't come from MS.  On the other hand it is a Samsung Desktop.  So you have two computers with Ultimate 7 on them?????  That is most likely the issue.  

I might have an extra key laying around if you need it.  Then you can get the official .iso and install it like that.  Or, you can just use the new key with Windows 10!

I appreciate all the info but keep your answers as short as possible.  I thought this was a Samsung Notebook but see now that it is a Desktop?  It seems you have four computers so I'm confused now???  

 

Is Speccy from the computer with the Product Key issue?????

 

I assume this is not the computer in question and that's why I'm seeing a Samsung Product Key, boy I'm confused?  You should have created another thread for this.

Your product key looks to be bogus in speccy and is on lot's of free lists all over the net!  It is a Samsung OEM, and that is not transferable to another computer, and surely didn't come from MS.  On the other hand it is a Samsung Desktop.  So you have two computers with Ultimate 7 on them?????  That is most likely the issue.  

 

I might have an extra key laying around if you need it.  Then you can get the official .iso and install it like that.  Or, you can just use the new key with Windows 10!

Sorry for the confusion, pcpunk!

The hard drive of my PC (not a laptop) is degrading, as SSD drives will; but this is happening notably more rapidly since the malware issue.  The SPECCY analysis I attached before is from this PC (including the damaged drive from the MyBook as drive #3, and the new 4 Tbyte drive as drive #4).

This PC is a Samsung machine (I cannot see the model number -- I will take the machine out so I can install the 4 Tbyte drive as its D: drive, and will be able to provide those details at that time, if they are needed) was made for Windows 7 (according to the sticker).  The Korean version of Windows 7 was installed on this machine when I got it (used).  I bought the Windows 7 disks of the US edition so I could install that version of Windows 7 on the PC, because the Korean version conflicted with some of my software, and I replaced the hard drive at that time (since I was told it was better to use an SSD drive for the C: drive).

Some days after I installed Windows on this PC -- from the disks that were purchased from Microsoft -- Microsoft suddenly declared that the product key was invalid and so Windows was not genuine/registered.  Naturally I had used the product key that was sealed in the box with the disks, and I had no intention of sending them money to buy a new product key (which was their demand) -- I had just paid $100+ for the disks and one assumes that that price included a valid product key!  I attempted to contact Microsoft twice.  First by e-mail first, which did not work.  I then attempted to call them, but was put on hold, and waiting used up the whole debit card and I never spoke with anyone.  After that, since the unregistered Windows 7 would eventually turn black, someone sent me a crack program and that allowed me to validate Windows 7; but it seems it cannot auto-upgrade to Windows 10.

I was told that this machine can support Windows 10, but not Windows 11.

(Perhaps irrelevant:  I bought a new laptop last week, but I have not even turned it on yet, so I have no details on that machine -- I only mentioned that in passing to indicate that I would be able to communicate with BleepingComputer even during the process of changing the C: drive in the PC -- since installing both Windows and Linux seemed likely to take quite a bit of time, and would probably be complicated as well meaning that I might have to go back and forth with yourself and John in order to complete the process satisfactorily.  The operating system in the laptop is also the Korean version of Windows 10, so will have to be changed to the US version, too, before I can use it; and until that is done I do not want to do anything with that laptop but use it to communicate via e-mails.  That machine is another matter, however, and I did not intend to discuss it here.  Sorry for the confusion.)

Now it is time to get ready to go out, so I will be shutting down now.  I should be back on line in 3 or 4 hours, if all goes well.  Thank you for your help.

-- DMB

Edited by dmburkus, Today, 12:25 AM.